The Roman philosopher Cicero once wrote: “A happy life consists in tranquillity of mind.” Well, I shall let you into a little secret – you need travel no further than North Devon to see what he meant. There is something extremely liberating about being in the middle of nowhere, where you can hear the silence but comfort yourself with the thought that you are not too far away from civilisation.
This idyllic state of affairs is just what we found at Downe Cottages – a little gem of a place perched on a hilltop just outside the village of Hartland with panoramic views to Lundy Island and the sea. Downe Cottages is a small complex of luxury holiday accommodation, converted from a 15th-century farm by Jeremy and Lynda Roe, who have put their heart and soul into the project.
A barrister by profession, Jeremy gave up his job with a FTSE 100 company to find a better quality of life in the West Country. The couple sold their home in Surrey and spent two years looking for the right property to do up.
In the end, they discovered a Grade II-listed farmhouse on the tip of the Hartland Peninsula, which came with a range of dilapidated outbuildings that were ripe for renovation. The work to restore the house and barns took a further three years to complete. Jeremy and Lynda didn’t want guests to have to put up with building work as noise is definitely not on the Downe specification. The result is five stunning Victorian farm buildings converted into eight holiday cottages, ranging from one to three bedrooms and all beautifully presented with a wealth of oak beams and character. In their previous lives, Jeremy and Lynda often stayed in the world’s finest hotels. So they have done their utmost to introduce the luxury they have experienced elsewhere into Downe Cottages.
We stayed in the one bedroom Clematis, whose spacious living area featured comfortable seating, a log burner, TV and a video, which came with a blank tape in case we wanted to record a favourite programme while we were out.
Such attention to detail could be found in every room, including the kitchen, which came fully equipped with everything from oven, microwave and dishwasher to a garlic press and lettuce spinner. Upstairs was a large, beautifully furnished bedroom with a superb view of Lundy Island and, just as important, an extremely comfortable bed. The en suite shower room was spotlessly clean and equipped with complimentary toiletries.
But what makes Downe Cottages that extra bit special is the all-inclusive health spa and gym with sauna, steam room and a whirlpool tub looking out on to a lily pond in the well-tended gardens. As an extra, you can also book in for a relaxing spa treatment, ranging from an Indian head massage to reflexology with aromatherapy oils. Prices start at £35 for a back and shoulder massage.
Children are welcome to play in the seven acres of grounds or Jeremy and Lynda are happy for you to borrow a video from the large library in the farmhouse if the weather takes a turn for the worse. But come rain or shine, the walks are truly spectacular in this part of the world. One such stroll is to Berry Cove – the nearest beach – along the the coastal path to Hartland Quay, then to Stoke and back. The walk takes two hours and you can stop off at Stoke Barton Farm, opposite St Nectan’s Church, for a traditional Devon cream tea. Owner Helen Davey insists you take any left-overs home in a doggy bag, including the jam and cream.
Jeremy and Lynda have also put together a marvellous information pack, full of tips on where to go and what to do. I particularly liked the tale of the Coach and Horses at Buckland Brewer, highly recommended for its steaks.
On one occasion, the Roes went to this eatery and ordered two fillet steaks. The chef came out in person to say there was only one steak left and offer his apologies… for the 15-minute delay while the village butcher finished his tea. So there you have it – nothing is too much trouble down in North Devon. My wife and I loved the fresh air and gloriously relaxed pace of life. Stress? We couldn’t remember the meaning of the word.