Dorset Echo

The north coasts of both Devon and Cornwall are places I’ve visited regularly over the years. Cornwall was a great favourite for family holidays, about as far as my parents wanted to travel with my brother and I squabbling in the back of the car.

And as we got older we still returned to North Devon, but mostly to Croyde and Saunton Sands – our collection of friends being surfers, of varying abilities it has to be said, and me a confirmed body boarder. But one area which we have never explored was the area around Hartland, a village between Bideford and Bude, but far enough off the beaten track to preserve its charm and beauty.

As you turn off the groovily named Atlantic Highway, or A39, and head towards the coast, the roads turn into lanes and the lanes become gradually narrower – you know you’re getting away from it all. Yet the nearest town is less than half an hour away. The scenery is also beautiful, as you travel through the rolling hills of Tarka country to the rugged coastline at Hartland Point.

We stayed at Downe Cottages, which are located on the tip of the Hartland Peninsula with glorious views looking north to Lundy Island and west over the Atlantic. All around you are acres and acres of rolling farmland, gently leading out to the sea. The area is perfect if you enjoy walking. You can walk to Hartland Point from the cottages and explore along the coast. There’s still a chance of finding your own little cove. On arrival we were greeted by Jeremy and Lynda, and assorted cats, who invited us into their beautiful farmhouse. The couple bought the house and its assorted outbuildings and have painstakingly restored them.

The previous owners had lived in half of the large farmhouse and let the remaining rooms to holidaymakers and the yard was a collection of ramshackle outbuildings. The house now feels like a real family home, which it is, boasting beautiful stone floors and a huge pine kitchen table -you immediately feel at home, And the other buildings have been restored and rebuilt with the utmost care and attention.

Nothing has been missed or overlooked and it seems no expense has been spared. In fact, most of the people who stay at Downe Cottages return time and time again. The ramshackle old farm buildings are now eight cottages, of varying sizes, from big enough for a couple, to the four bedroom cottage which can cater for a family of four or more. They have all been beautifully decorated inside and finished to the highest quality outside. Lynda said she has aimed to supply all the things people need, to save them packing loads of stuff. So as well as all the equipment you would usually find, there are those extra bits and pieces you never knew you’d miss. So from garlic presses, to herbs and spices, there should be everything you want. The kitchens are equipped to the highest standard, with microwave ovens and dishwashers, making your stay as convenient as possible.

Each cottage has a television and a lounge area to relax. Upstairs the bedrooms are again beautifully finished with reclaimed pine furniture and the new bathrooms have power showers. Some cottages have wood burning stoves to create a really cosy atmosphere. There’s also garaging to keep cars out of the way.

Jeremy and Lynda have lots of board games and a huge video library. If the weather’s good enough you can also borrow a barbecue or have a game of croquet. And, given a little notice, they can even arrange a babysitter, if you fancy a night out away from the kids.

The couple also own two fields next to the cottages, one which is kept mowed and is great for playing games, the other which has longer grass and is ideal for picnics or sunbathing.

They have put together an extensive guidebook, not only to the cottages, but also giving advice on where to go around North Devon and Cornwall. There’s everything you could possibly need to know, from where to take the kids to the best place for a romantic meal.

Make sure you stop off in the village of Hartland. It has remained unchanged for much of its life and is a real village community. There are three pubs and shops to browse if you want to pass a bit of time. It has an excellent antiques shop and a couple of potteries.

There is a lovely circular walk to Hartland from Downe, which takes you to the village through the picturesque vale and back up through a wooded hillside by Cheristow to Downe. The walk takes a lazy half-hour there and a lazy half-hour back. The footpath through the wooded vale runs beside a small river before leading you into the centre of Hartland and brings you over a small river back up the side of the valley through a lovely woodland to Cheristow and then back to Downe. The real beauty of North Devon is how it has missed out on becoming tacky and touristy. Even the busier resorts still retain their charm.
If you fancy dining out in a bit more style, you can travel further down the coast to Padstow, where Rick Stein has two restaurants. Book well in advance because it’s hard to get into. On Saturday lunchtimes there’s normally a queue of people snaking out of his cafe hoping for a table. Northcote Manor at Burrington near Umberleigh is another place if you fancy dining out in luxury. Although relatively pricey, the food is excellent and you dine in beautiful surroundings.
Close to Hartland is the village of Clovelly. This is best visited either out of season, or early morning or late afternoon when there are less people around, because it gets so busy. It is very beautiful and clings to the steep hillside as the cobbled street rushes to the harbour below.

The old slate roofs with their blues and greys and the stone-walled cottages are stunning as you walk down towards them from the top of the village or gaze up to them from the harbour wall. In summer the cobbled streets are brightly edged by the rich colours of the flowers that grow in every cottage garden.
And if you need your fix of shopping, call in at the new factory outlet at Bideford, Atlantic Village. There’s a chance to get bargains in this large, modern shopping mall. It has a range of chain stores, as well as an excellent play zone for young children and is a very convenient place to shop.

A trip to Lundy Island, 12 miles off the coast, is a must for any holidaymaker spending a week in Hartland. If the weather is good the day will be a marvellous day out. The island is now a haven for wildlife, including puffins and seals. Regular ferries leave from Bideford and llfracombe.

As well as this, within a few miles of Downe you’ll find horseriding, tennis and cycling, and if you fancy something more leisurely there’s fishing, golf and beautiful gardens open to the public. Lynda and Jeremy told us that a great deal of their business comes from repeat bookings, we can see why and hope to return to this beautiful unspoilt corner of Devon in the not too distant future.