Liz Bellohambers took a trip to North Devon, where she enjoyed stunning scenery, relaxing walks and the biggest cream tea she has ever seen.
Cottages in the country do not always fulfill their romantic expectations. You lug sheets and duvets halfway across England to dress damp beds, fiddle with dodgy boilers that go out, and have nobody but a grumpy farmer to ask for help – if you’re lucky. However, stay at Downe cottages in North Devon, and you really will have an idyllic rural break. My cosy, heated one-bedroom cottage near Hartland Quay, called Clematis, had stunning views over Lundy Island, and admiring the view was just the start. Also on offer was basking in the firelight of the woodbuming stove, sitting outside on the wrought iron garden furniture, or watching videos in your cottage from the large collection on loan from helpful owners Jeremy and Lynda Roe. But for a really luxurious treat, there was the fully equipped gym and health spa on site.
The spa room, which includes a sauna, steam room and whirlpool, overlooks a secluded lily pond, and there are rest areas indoors and out. For complete relaxation you could do as I did during my visit in early May, and take advantage of a massage by a qualified therapist. This proved a perfect end to a day’s walking (or a couple of hours at least), which included a trip along the coast path, about 20 minutes’ walk from the cottage. The circular walk led me down to the coast, along a river flanked with wild bluebells, and to the Stoke Barton tearooms, which do the biggest cream teas I have ever seen. The beautifully refurbished cottages, converted listed barns, all have shower rooms with fluffy white towels and toiletries provided – just like in a quality hotel. The cottages also have fully equipped kitchens, with every pot, pan and cooking tool you could possibly want, and even a dishwasher and microwave.
All the basics, including bin bags, washing up liquid and clean tea towels, are ready and waiting however, there is little need for self-catering in the area, and Jeremy and Lynda who live on site have written an excellent guide to the best pubs, restaurants and tearooms around.
They are also on hand to help with anything you might need and have personally checked out every place they mention in the guide, which also includes days out, shops and more.
Lundy Island, which is three miles long and one mile wide, takes two hours to reach by ferry from Bideford (about 15 miles from the cottage) and is a unique experience. An amazing variety or wildlife and scenery. It is flanked by the Atlantic Ocean on the stormy west side, creating stunning craggy scenery, and the quieter Bristol channel on the east side, where gentler conditions encourage plants and animals. Just 20 people live on Lundy, all helping run it, and there are visitors staying in the unusual collection of properties to rent. These range from a castle, to buildings joined to the island’s old lighthouse (I climbed the main tower and sat on the deckchairs at the top admiring the view), to an imposing classical building. The island also a cosy pub with a real community feel. Despite the fairly expensive £25 day return ticket, the trip was more than worth it. Lundy is a true one-off.
My cottage provided a perfect haven after the day, luxuries and more, Downe Cottages are perfect.